People love Wood Flooring just because of the classic beauty of wood flooring. Wood flooring is warmer and often less expensive than marble or other stone floors. A wood floor is also more elegant and durable than any other floor type.
There are different classifications of wood flooring to choose from. One of the most popular types is Hardwood Flooring. This material of flooring is come from the beauty of natural wood that people admire. The other type of wood flooring is Laminate Flooring which is made of High Density Fibred Board (HDF) plus a layer of printing decorative paper on top with repeating patterns, while hardwood are natural from trees with different patterns.
Hardwood flooring is a durable product which can last for life. This material is quite expensive. Some people just want the look of hardwood, but not the expense. Then they will go for laminate flooring. To the naked eye, laminated wood is just like a hardwood floor.
Laminated wood is actually more resistant to scratch and wear as compare to hardwood flooring. It is designed for convenience and has a limited life of 15 to 20 years. If laminate wood shows wear, you can't refinish it; you have to replace. Hardwood flooring can be sanded and refinished if it shows wear and can last for life.
These are the options you have if you want the beauty of wood flooring. Depending on your choice or financial capability, each material is quite good.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Solid Hardwood Flooring
Solid hardwood flooring is solid wood all the way through, from top to bottom. Solid hardwood flooring comes either unfinished or prefinished. With unfinished, once installed, require immediate light sanding, staining and sealing then finished on site. More modernly, the product is pre-finished in a factory. The products that are pre-finished are added aluminium to increase the wear a hardwood floor can handle.With prefinished hardwood, you can walk on it right after installed.
The most attractive point of solid hardwood flooring is the feeling of warmth and comfort it can give a room and really make it feel like a home. Solid hardwood flooring has a natural warmth and spirit of elegant that no other type of flooring can be.
Solid hardwood flooring can last for long even for hundred years or more. Solid hardwood flooring is more durable than other flooring. People who consider their flooring costs over a longtime period, may actually save up more when compared to alternate flooring technologies.
Solid hardwood flooring is simple to clean. Weekly vacuuming of particulates and little mopping is enough to clean and keep most hardwood floors shining. Another bonus is that a scratch here or a gouge there really just adds character to wood floors. It is easy to refinish your hard wood floors with perfection at any time you want.
Solid hardwood flooring is the healthy flooring choice for interior living environments, especially if you live with little children. There are much lower levels of chemical emissions from natural wood products. Hardwood floors are also a good flooring solution for individuals that have allergies or asthma conditions.
The most attractive point of solid hardwood flooring is the feeling of warmth and comfort it can give a room and really make it feel like a home. Solid hardwood flooring has a natural warmth and spirit of elegant that no other type of flooring can be.
Solid hardwood flooring can last for long even for hundred years or more. Solid hardwood flooring is more durable than other flooring. People who consider their flooring costs over a longtime period, may actually save up more when compared to alternate flooring technologies.
Solid hardwood flooring is simple to clean. Weekly vacuuming of particulates and little mopping is enough to clean and keep most hardwood floors shining. Another bonus is that a scratch here or a gouge there really just adds character to wood floors. It is easy to refinish your hard wood floors with perfection at any time you want.
Solid hardwood flooring is the healthy flooring choice for interior living environments, especially if you live with little children. There are much lower levels of chemical emissions from natural wood products. Hardwood floors are also a good flooring solution for individuals that have allergies or asthma conditions.
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Engineered Wood Flooring
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Engineered Hardwood Floor is constructed from several wood plies that are glued together. It has wide range of species from temperate to tropical timers. Top layer is made up of cut veneer which is 3mm to 3.5mm thick. Middle core are made from Hevea, Rubberwood or Pine. The bottom layer is made from spruce veneer from Finland. This veneer is chosen for both its stability and sustainability as it comes from timber plantation in Finland grown mainly for pulp and paper industry. The top ply is also available in different wood species.
The benefit of engineered wood flooring is its durability and stability. These durability and stability come from the way the flooring is made, with each layer of wood placed perpendicular to the adjacent layer. These alternating 3 layers of wood materials laminated together to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of wood caused by exposure to moisture. Hardness of the top layer apart from appearance is important when selecting a wood floor. High traffic area may require hard wood species
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Engineered Flooring is generally easy to install. This is because of it design of tongue-and-groove locking system and click locking system which requires no glue and nails. This floating floor installation method has become popular, since do-it-yourself homeowners can usually install it.
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Engineered Flooring are pre-finished, thus no sanding is required after installation. Prefinished engineered floor has been added aluminium to increase the wear a hardwood floor can handle. It can be sanded two or three times after 15 to 20 years of used, which make it a life lasting product.
The benefit of engineered wood flooring is its durability and stability. These durability and stability come from the way the flooring is made, with each layer of wood placed perpendicular to the adjacent layer. These alternating 3 layers of wood materials laminated together to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of wood caused by exposure to moisture. Hardness of the top layer apart from appearance is important when selecting a wood floor. High traffic area may require hard wood species
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Engineered Flooring is generally easy to install. This is because of it design of tongue-and-groove locking system and click locking system which requires no glue and nails. This floating floor installation method has become popular, since do-it-yourself homeowners can usually install it.
UNIVERSAL FLOORING Engineered Flooring are pre-finished, thus no sanding is required after installation. Prefinished engineered floor has been added aluminium to increase the wear a hardwood floor can handle. It can be sanded two or three times after 15 to 20 years of used, which make it a life lasting product.
Monday, July 13, 2009
How to Intstall TOPFLOR Laminate Flooring?
Installation Instruction of TOPFLOR click system laminate flooring:
Install laminate flooring is not as easier as ALLURE Vinyl Plank floorings.
Tools and materials that you need for installation of laminate floorings are:
Measurement tape, handsaw/jigsaw/coping saw, utility knife, trim cutters, fitting wedges, underlayment PE foam, plastic sheet, skirting, profile and laminate flooring.
1. Preparing the Floor. If you've got another type of flooring, this is the time to get rid of it. Pull up your old carpet and padding. Remove all of the tack strips around the room's perimeter. You may need to scrape the floor to get rid of any padding sticking to it. Vacuum it well. If there are any noticeable dips, level them out. On a concrete slab, thinset may be skimmed on it.
1. Preparing your floor. Make sure your subfloor is flat and even. Vacuum it well. Lay a layer of plastic sheet on top you subfloor. The function is to prevent moisture coming up from your subfloor. Lay another layer of PE foam to absorb sound.
2. Lay the laminate boards lengthways towards the light source. Use fitting wedges at intervals between the laminating board and wall. You should leave a 10mm gap between your laminate flooring and the wall for expansion. Lay the first laminate board in a left hand corner, the end with the short tongue against the wall. Lay the next laminate board end on, placing the short tongue of the second laminate board into the long tongue of the first laminate board at a 30 degree angle. Lower the board and lock it into place. Lay more laminate boards in the same way until you reach the end of the row, where you will probably have to cut a laminate board to make it fit. If the cut off piece is 300mm-900mm use it to start the next row, otherwise halve a new laminate board, as the joined should be staggered.
3. To star the next row, angle the cut laminate board against the laminate board in the previous row, cut end next to the skirting wedge. Press forward and fold down at the same time to lock its long side. Place the short end of the next board at an angle against the previous board and fold down. Make sure the laminate board is on the locking strip in the previous row. Angle the laminating boards by 30 degrees and push them against the row in front. When the boards are tightly together, push them down. Continue to lay the laminating boards in this way row by row.
4. For the last row, place a laminate board on top of the second last row and place a third laminate board on top with the tongue touching the wall and use the edge to mark the cutting line on the board beneath. Cut the board and ease it into position, Remove the wedges.
5. Once the flooring is laid cover the edge around the edge or the room with flooring trim or laminate skirting. The trim or laminate skirting should be fixed to the original skirting -NOT to the floor- with adhesive. Use trim cutters that cut the trim in a straight line or at an angle to fit in the corner.
When buying your laminate flooring don't forget to buy the accessories that make the finishing touches to your perfect floor.
When your laminate flooring stops and the flooring of another room start you can use profile to gracefully take you through into the next room.
Install laminate flooring is not as easier as ALLURE Vinyl Plank floorings.
Tools and materials that you need for installation of laminate floorings are:
Measurement tape, handsaw/jigsaw/coping saw, utility knife, trim cutters, fitting wedges, underlayment PE foam, plastic sheet, skirting, profile and laminate flooring.
1. Preparing the Floor. If you've got another type of flooring, this is the time to get rid of it. Pull up your old carpet and padding. Remove all of the tack strips around the room's perimeter. You may need to scrape the floor to get rid of any padding sticking to it. Vacuum it well. If there are any noticeable dips, level them out. On a concrete slab, thinset may be skimmed on it.
1. Preparing your floor. Make sure your subfloor is flat and even. Vacuum it well. Lay a layer of plastic sheet on top you subfloor. The function is to prevent moisture coming up from your subfloor. Lay another layer of PE foam to absorb sound.
2. Lay the laminate boards lengthways towards the light source. Use fitting wedges at intervals between the laminating board and wall. You should leave a 10mm gap between your laminate flooring and the wall for expansion. Lay the first laminate board in a left hand corner, the end with the short tongue against the wall. Lay the next laminate board end on, placing the short tongue of the second laminate board into the long tongue of the first laminate board at a 30 degree angle. Lower the board and lock it into place. Lay more laminate boards in the same way until you reach the end of the row, where you will probably have to cut a laminate board to make it fit. If the cut off piece is 300mm-900mm use it to start the next row, otherwise halve a new laminate board, as the joined should be staggered.
3. To star the next row, angle the cut laminate board against the laminate board in the previous row, cut end next to the skirting wedge. Press forward and fold down at the same time to lock its long side. Place the short end of the next board at an angle against the previous board and fold down. Make sure the laminate board is on the locking strip in the previous row. Angle the laminating boards by 30 degrees and push them against the row in front. When the boards are tightly together, push them down. Continue to lay the laminating boards in this way row by row.
4. For the last row, place a laminate board on top of the second last row and place a third laminate board on top with the tongue touching the wall and use the edge to mark the cutting line on the board beneath. Cut the board and ease it into position, Remove the wedges.
5. Once the flooring is laid cover the edge around the edge or the room with flooring trim or laminate skirting. The trim or laminate skirting should be fixed to the original skirting -NOT to the floor- with adhesive. Use trim cutters that cut the trim in a straight line or at an angle to fit in the corner.
When buying your laminate flooring don't forget to buy the accessories that make the finishing touches to your perfect floor.
When your laminate flooring stops and the flooring of another room start you can use profile to gracefully take you through into the next room.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
TOPFLOR - HDF Laminate Flooring
Do you ever dream of a natural feel on you living environment and working place? Laminate Flooring is the answer to your dreams since you were also looking for TOPFLOR Laminate Flooring.
TOPFLOR laminate flooring provides you the simplest "click" together system, that means no glue, no fuss, no mess. TOPFLOR low clearance space height (8.3mm) makes it easy to lay on existing floors. If you move house and want to keep the same look and ambience then simply take up your laminate flooring and install it in your new home.
TOPFLOR is easy to maintain, hardwearing and durable. Laminate flooring is made up of four layers: main core with High Density Fiberboard, high value back paper, the decorative layer and the high resistance overlay which makes it more hardwearing than real wood floors.
Below are the advantages of TOPFLOR:
WEAR RESISTANT: A high abrasion value ensures a long life for the Topflor Collections. Even after years, there are no signs of wear or walking paths.
LIGHTFAST: The surface won’t fade when exposed to strong light or direct sunlight.
RESILIENT against scratches and also meets DIN standards regarding suitability for castors.
RESISTANT to chemicals and cleaning agents used.
EASY MAINTENANCE: With Topflor’s closed surface, no dirt can get to grips.
SAFE: Topflor is produced without any materials containing PCB or dioxins, ensuring a healthy living environment. With its antistatic and dust-resistant surface, it is also an excellent alternative for people who suffer from allergies.
EASY INSTALLATION: Topflor’s low clearance space height (8.3mm mm) makes it easy to lay on existing floors.
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TOPFLOR laminate flooring provides you the simplest "click" together system, that means no glue, no fuss, no mess. TOPFLOR low clearance space height (8.3mm) makes it easy to lay on existing floors. If you move house and want to keep the same look and ambience then simply take up your laminate flooring and install it in your new home.
TOPFLOR is easy to maintain, hardwearing and durable. Laminate flooring is made up of four layers: main core with High Density Fiberboard, high value back paper, the decorative layer and the high resistance overlay which makes it more hardwearing than real wood floors.
Below are the advantages of TOPFLOR:
WEAR RESISTANT: A high abrasion value ensures a long life for the Topflor Collections. Even after years, there are no signs of wear or walking paths.
LIGHTFAST: The surface won’t fade when exposed to strong light or direct sunlight.
RESILIENT against scratches and also meets DIN standards regarding suitability for castors.
RESISTANT to chemicals and cleaning agents used.
EASY MAINTENANCE: With Topflor’s closed surface, no dirt can get to grips.
SAFE: Topflor is produced without any materials containing PCB or dioxins, ensuring a healthy living environment. With its antistatic and dust-resistant surface, it is also an excellent alternative for people who suffer from allergies.
EASY INSTALLATION: Topflor’s low clearance space height (8.3mm mm) makes it easy to lay on existing floors.
P
Saturday, July 11, 2009
How to Replace ALLURE Vinyl Plank?
Replacement of plank :
Be sure to keep some spare allure planks in case there is an unforeseen need for replacement.
If you need to replace a plank, use a heat gun and heat up the outside of the damaged plank, along the ‘under lip’ of gripstrip on long and butt end of the plank. You can determine the ‘under lip’ gripstrip by finding the installation starting wall, it is on the right side when facing plank and starting wall is on your left from the second row on. Hold the head gun at least 150mm away and be careful not to burn surface of plank. This will soften the adhesive enough for you to then make and incision with your utility knife along the seam cutting through the whole plank.
Be sure you have a very sharp blade in your utility knife, cut a slot around the short edge from the long side you just cut. Then using a flat head screw driver or putty knife, pry up the damaged plank. Once you can grip the plank, pull it away from the ‘under lip’ gripstrip from the adjoining plank be careful not to rip or damage strip.
On ‘over lip’ gripstrip on adjoining plank use heat gun to soften adhesive and peel back original ‘under lip’ gripstrip on side and butt end of plank.
Lift adjoining planks and slide replacement plank into place. Use a hand roller on all four seams of plank.
If strip is damaged, then please replace using alternate method.
Alternate method:
Use a heat gun being careful not to burn plank surface. This will soften the adhesive enough for you to then make an incision with your utility knife along the seam cutting through both the ‘over lip’ and ‘under lip’ gripstrip. Do this on all four sides. Make sure you have a very sharp blade in your utility knife, cut a slot in the center of the plank to be removed. Then using a flat head screw driver or putty knives, pry up the damaged plank. If the edges of plank that is removed do not cut out cleanly, you may need to go back with your sharp utility knife and with a straight edge ‘clean up’ the edges so that perfect rectangle is left with no gripstrips remaining from the adjoining plank.
When installing the replacement plank, first cut off the ‘under lip’ gripstrip from one side and simply ‘attach it’ to the ‘over lip’ on the opposite side. Do this for both the long and short sides.
Take double face tape and cut four pieces to be place all around the plank leaving the bottom cover on tape lift adjoining planks and side tape into position leaving at least 25mm of tape exposed all around plank.
Position replacement planks and press into place. By not gluing the tape to the floor, you will keep the installation floating so no buckling can occur.
Be sure to keep some spare allure planks in case there is an unforeseen need for replacement.
If you need to replace a plank, use a heat gun and heat up the outside of the damaged plank, along the ‘under lip’ of gripstrip on long and butt end of the plank. You can determine the ‘under lip’ gripstrip by finding the installation starting wall, it is on the right side when facing plank and starting wall is on your left from the second row on. Hold the head gun at least 150mm away and be careful not to burn surface of plank. This will soften the adhesive enough for you to then make and incision with your utility knife along the seam cutting through the whole plank.
Be sure you have a very sharp blade in your utility knife, cut a slot around the short edge from the long side you just cut. Then using a flat head screw driver or putty knife, pry up the damaged plank. Once you can grip the plank, pull it away from the ‘under lip’ gripstrip from the adjoining plank be careful not to rip or damage strip.
On ‘over lip’ gripstrip on adjoining plank use heat gun to soften adhesive and peel back original ‘under lip’ gripstrip on side and butt end of plank.
Lift adjoining planks and slide replacement plank into place. Use a hand roller on all four seams of plank.
If strip is damaged, then please replace using alternate method.
Alternate method:
Use a heat gun being careful not to burn plank surface. This will soften the adhesive enough for you to then make an incision with your utility knife along the seam cutting through both the ‘over lip’ and ‘under lip’ gripstrip. Do this on all four sides. Make sure you have a very sharp blade in your utility knife, cut a slot in the center of the plank to be removed. Then using a flat head screw driver or putty knives, pry up the damaged plank. If the edges of plank that is removed do not cut out cleanly, you may need to go back with your sharp utility knife and with a straight edge ‘clean up’ the edges so that perfect rectangle is left with no gripstrips remaining from the adjoining plank.
When installing the replacement plank, first cut off the ‘under lip’ gripstrip from one side and simply ‘attach it’ to the ‘over lip’ on the opposite side. Do this for both the long and short sides.
Take double face tape and cut four pieces to be place all around the plank leaving the bottom cover on tape lift adjoining planks and side tape into position leaving at least 25mm of tape exposed all around plank.
Position replacement planks and press into place. By not gluing the tape to the floor, you will keep the installation floating so no buckling can occur.
How to Install ALLURE Vinyl Plank Flooring?
Before laying out the floor, check the wall you are starting from and make sure it is square to the opposite wall. Simply measure the room from opposite ends of the wall to the far wall. If the measurements are different you can make adjustments on the first row by scribing the plank on the over edge.
1. Lay a row of loose planks without securing them to each other first to determine if you need to adjust the length of the first plank to avoid a small piece of less than 300mm on the opposite wall from where you started.
Installation should start in a corner and proceed from the wall with the under-edge facing out away from the wall. Allow a gap of minimum 3mm depending on the area of installation for subfloor movement, which should be covered by molding. Trim off the top over-edge facing the corner wall.
2. When securing gripstrip on two planks together, you should angle (45 degrees) the second plank into the corresponding edge. The over-edge always placed on top of the under-edge. Use one hand to hold the plank and the other hand to guide the edge into the place for a tight fit by rolling the plank as you go. Keep the seams tight by slightly push the plank against the adjoining plank.
3. If your seam appears not to be tight, you can immediately pull apart the planks and reapply it. Slowly lift the top plank away from the bottom plank and simply reapply them, repeating step #3. Be careful not to pull the planks apart to fast as you could rip or damage the gripstrip.
You have at least 10 to 15 minutes of the ‘open time’ in which you can re-work the seams before any damage occurs to the adhesive on the gripstrip. In some instances, the repair adhesive will be needed.
4. When installing the plank, it is strongly recommended to stagger the rows so that the short edge seams are not in a straight uniform line. We recommend the staggered random method. However you may want to try other ‘patterns’ of planks to suit your taste.
5. Start the second row with the plank cut at about 2/3 length (600mm). Simply measure and mark the plank, then using a straight edge and utility knife, simply score the plank and snap.
6. The over-edge butts up to the first row. Again, get one corner of the plank started tightly against the other and on a 45 degree angle roll the plank tightly into place. The remaining 1/3 piece can be used on the far wall, if the layout of the room permits. When cutting for length, be sure to always cut the short side of plank with the over edge, the remaining piece can then be used on the opposite side of the room, at the end of that row.
7. Start the third row with the plank cut at 1/3 of a length (300mm). Again the remaining piece can be used at the opposite end of the row, if the layout of the room permits.
8. Continue this pattern for the remainder of the rows to be installed. Always place the cut end of the first plank against the wall.
9. Fitting around irregular objects, no problem. Simply make a pattern out of heavy paper to fit around pipes or irregular objects. Place the pattern upon the plank and trace. Cut along trace line using a utility knife or heavy duty scissors, and lay plank.
10. It is recommended to use a hand roller as you install with direct pressure to the seams and follow after installation with a 50Kg (3-section) flooring roller.
1. Lay a row of loose planks without securing them to each other first to determine if you need to adjust the length of the first plank to avoid a small piece of less than 300mm on the opposite wall from where you started.
Installation should start in a corner and proceed from the wall with the under-edge facing out away from the wall. Allow a gap of minimum 3mm depending on the area of installation for subfloor movement, which should be covered by molding. Trim off the top over-edge facing the corner wall.
2. When securing gripstrip on two planks together, you should angle (45 degrees) the second plank into the corresponding edge. The over-edge always placed on top of the under-edge. Use one hand to hold the plank and the other hand to guide the edge into the place for a tight fit by rolling the plank as you go. Keep the seams tight by slightly push the plank against the adjoining plank.
3. If your seam appears not to be tight, you can immediately pull apart the planks and reapply it. Slowly lift the top plank away from the bottom plank and simply reapply them, repeating step #3. Be careful not to pull the planks apart to fast as you could rip or damage the gripstrip.
You have at least 10 to 15 minutes of the ‘open time’ in which you can re-work the seams before any damage occurs to the adhesive on the gripstrip. In some instances, the repair adhesive will be needed.
4. When installing the plank, it is strongly recommended to stagger the rows so that the short edge seams are not in a straight uniform line. We recommend the staggered random method. However you may want to try other ‘patterns’ of planks to suit your taste.
5. Start the second row with the plank cut at about 2/3 length (600mm). Simply measure and mark the plank, then using a straight edge and utility knife, simply score the plank and snap.
6. The over-edge butts up to the first row. Again, get one corner of the plank started tightly against the other and on a 45 degree angle roll the plank tightly into place. The remaining 1/3 piece can be used on the far wall, if the layout of the room permits. When cutting for length, be sure to always cut the short side of plank with the over edge, the remaining piece can then be used on the opposite side of the room, at the end of that row.
7. Start the third row with the plank cut at 1/3 of a length (300mm). Again the remaining piece can be used at the opposite end of the row, if the layout of the room permits.
8. Continue this pattern for the remainder of the rows to be installed. Always place the cut end of the first plank against the wall.
9. Fitting around irregular objects, no problem. Simply make a pattern out of heavy paper to fit around pipes or irregular objects. Place the pattern upon the plank and trace. Cut along trace line using a utility knife or heavy duty scissors, and lay plank.
10. It is recommended to use a hand roller as you install with direct pressure to the seams and follow after installation with a 50Kg (3-section) flooring roller.
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